State of the battery - Page 2 - Renault Z.E. Forum
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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RE: State of the battery

Yes we drove without the heating on.
We preferred frezing to getting stuck somewhere and we only turned on the heat when we sure we would get home with +10km.

So getting back to my initial question, I guess the battery is as to be expected.

All in all I am quite happy with the Fluence. If you can live with the range, you seem to get a lot of car for the money,...
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 01:30 PM
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RE: State of the battery

You do indeed - and this was driven home when I realised the audio I was listening to was being seamlessly streamed from my phone (which itself was being streamed from the cloud) and the only finger I had to lift was swirching from Radio/CD to Auxiliary......
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 07:12 AM
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RE: State of the battery

Ne lots of kit pas dans the Expression+ remember! The Dynamique is certainly more value but I simply cannot put into words how much I despise the look and feel of cheap leather.

I recently swapped my Forester (cloth and Alcantara) for an Outback (beige leather) and now have to endure - as I knew I bloody would - sliding about on the seats, anything I put on the seats sliding onto the floor, new blue jeans leaving new blue jeans colour on the squab, and a fingers-down-blackboard orchestra of squeaks and creaks as cheap leather rubs against panels, door trim, plastic lids, handles, my bottom and yet more cheap leather.

It is slowly driving me MAD. It is a reminder to stick to what you know you like. I'll not be getting leather in a car again.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 08:59 AM
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RE: State of the battery

first thing I did was buy cloth seat covers!
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 09:12 AM
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RE: State of the battery

Hm. Hadn't thought of that...
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 04:33 PM
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RE: State of the battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walther
Thank you guys,

Good to know mileage may improve, I will keep track the next 200km.
It is also clear I have a lot to learn about these electric cars, and I need an English manual besides the french one.

I hope it never gets old starting from zero and go bzzzzZZZZZZZZZ
There's an English user's manual online. Do a google search for it. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll email it to you (pdf).

I also just bought a 2012 Fluence EZ, with 12,000 mi. When I changed the driver on the "Oscar" console (that's what we have on these cars in the country I'm in, leftover from Better Place) to "guest", it gave me a range of 110 km.

I was advised on this Forum's site to get to learn how to find the soft spot on the accelerator, where you are regenerating but also not slowing, but sorta coasting. That taught me that pressing the accelerator doesn't necessarily use up juice. I keep the readout on the kw usage reading, and nothing else, and that way I have found the "soft spot".

Welcome to the club!

Joseph
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 04:53 AM
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RE: State of the battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyL
I would not suggest going down the road of getting a Zoe/Fluence compliant OBD reader for 2 reasons, they are costly and it will give misleading information about the % capacity which bears little resemblance to the max 22kw operating window, I have seen a 96% capacity equate to 18 1/2 kw at a 50k check.
Hi. I've been reading can-bus data with a cheap interface and decoding data on my own.
I'm starting to question the 22kWh window. My car, with 15000km, says it is at 98% health and with a full charge gets 19.5kWh of usable energy (for a wall socket charge of 21kWh). Clearly, according to obd data 100% health would be around 20kWh and not 22kWh.
Anyone with a new car ever charged around 24kWh from the wall, from empty without ventilation in mild temperature ?

I think the best way to know pack capacity is to run it empty then do a full charge and register the kWh from the wall and then take 10% off for the charger efficiency.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyL
So the simplest test is a static discharge, a driving discharge is not accurate as there are multiple loads, some are registered and some are not. This is deliberate on Renaults part to muddy the water when a customer is trying to determine any thing on the pack.
Deliberate or not I found out why the dashboard spent kWh readout is inaccurate.
Everytime you turn off your car it will discard the decimal part of the reading, that is, if it was recording 10.8 kWh (only showing you 10) if you turn off the car it will discard the 0.8 and restart from 10.0. This is why it seems to show less than expected values.

You can test this without any equipment by driving the same track and stopping several times. On the first run just stop for a few moments keeping your car on. On the second run stop and turn off taking the key.
I've did this on a 30km track and got 2kWh of difference!

A static discharge will work as described because you never turn your car off but I believe a driving discharge will get you the same results as long as it's done on one trip without turning off the car.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 06:00 AM
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RE: State of the battery

Hi Alexandre
I did say do not go down the route of an OBD reader.
Cheap or dear they will still give you misleading information, The % health does not refer to the max 22Kw allowable from the pack, but it refers to the capacity of the pack which is far bigger.
The 22Kw window is a moveable feast, it can contract and expand depending on parameters to long to go into here.

On the Kwh reading you are correct even a Tesla will make a pigs ear of the reading when you do multiple stops on a single charge.
The fraction of Kwh which disappears after a stop will also be deducted from the SOC needle on the display which can be a bit disconcerting as you think your battery has lost something while you spent 20 minutes in the shop. This obviously can be minute or very noticeable dependent on the fraction being discounted.

The reason I said to do a static discharge is because the Kwh meter does not record every piece of equipment in use during a drive (ask your local Renault dealer and they will confirm this)
A static discharge with one known load is the closest to thing to accurate without having to get into guestimates & percentages.
However with a lot of these things, if you find one way works for you stick with it.















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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 03:36 AM
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RE: State of the battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyL
The fraction of Kwh which disappears after a stop will also be deducted from the SOC needle on the display which can be a bit disconcerting as you think your battery has lost something while you spent 20 minutes in the shop. This obviously can be minute or very noticeable dependent on the fraction being discounted.

The reason I said to do a static discharge is because the Kwh meter does not record every piece of equipment in use during a drive (ask your local Renault dealer and they will confirm this)
My experience and the data I'm reading dont agree with you. I havent seen the SoC losing values while stopping, only the kWh meter.
From what I seen so far the instant kW gauge does sum up the motor power (positive or negative) with the HV extra loads consumption that include 12V inverter, AC and the battery ventilation and cooler. This value is used the calculate the kWh and I find it does it correctly except when you stop.

Please dont take my disagreeing as offensive or something I'm just trying to express my technical point of view and discuss the matter so we can all learn something.

As for Renault dealers knowing about their ZE cars.... Well.... No comments
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