RE: State of the battery
I would not suggest going down the road of getting a Zoe/Fluence compliant OBD reader for 2 reasons, they are costly and it will give misleading information about the % capacity which bears little resemblance to the max 22kw operating window, I have seen a 96% capacity equate to 18 1/2 kw at a 50k check.
I am assuming you do not have test equipment to get the exact operating window capacity.
So the simplest test is a static discharge, a driving discharge is not accurate as there are multiple loads, some are registered and some are not. This is deliberate on Renaults part to muddy the water when a customer is trying to determine any thing on the pack.
Proceed as follows.
Make sure pack is at least 1/2 an hour finished a final charge, zero the KWh odometer. Turn off everything including lights, radio & remove plug in devises like phone chargers.
Open all of the windows(no test if raining) in the car, start the car, put in park.
Turn the heating on and put the temperature to Hi, turn the fan speed to max, point vents out of windows & use the manual button to prevent the air con operating.
you should be able to see a draw between 3 & 5 kw on the instantaneous kw readout.
The discharge time is ambient temperature dependant, it could be 4 hours or 8 hours.
As you get closer to the bottom of the operating window you will need to be in the car to take note of the minutes taken between KWh accumulated.
This will be needed to calculate the final fraction of KWh.
For example if the last registered kw took 10 minutes to clock up then a run of 5 minutes to turn off will mean a 1/2 KWh to add to the accumulated odometer reading.
This test is purely for at this moment in time, as average ambient temperature will effect the capacity of the pack and also triggers a constraining or expansion of the operating window to prevent damage to the pack.
Bear in mind you are not flattening the pack as the pack is never allowed to go near empty.
This is good enough to give you an idea of what you are working with.